The Garden of Kitsune
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ledkitsune's LiveJournal:
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| Friday, July 15th, 2011 | | 5:25 pm |
Been forever since a post
But due to certain demands, here we go. I'm starting up several new growing endeavors in my new place. The garage (my half of it) is slowly being converted into a vegetable garden, purely under LED.  That's maybe 1/12th of the area available for gardening. I'm going to be cranking out all kinds of stuff, from actual tobacco from the Morongo Indian tribe to jalapenos to tomatoes (as soon as I find a suitable trellis for those!) I will also be doing my medical cannabis growing, but that will be indoors. I just renewed my medical script so no worries here, though I should try to renew my state card ASAP. Fun times ahead! | | Wednesday, April 7th, 2010 | | 2:04 am |
Some math for the LEDs and Cannabis
I ran some numbers through for one of my planned tests. Assuming I do 14 days of 18 hour lighting, and 63 days of 12 hour lighting, using a 50 watt panel, I use for the entire grow 50,400 watt-hours, or 50.4 kWh. Assuming I get fifty grams of a harvest, that brings the yield to just about one gram per kilowatt-hour. The charge per kilowatt-hour (according to SoCal Edison) is about ten cents per kilowatt-hour (charges and taxes included.) So to grow 50 grams of product (assuming I get that much) I spend $5.04. So not only do I shatter multiple yield records regarding medical cannabis, but I spend basically five bucks in power to grow nearly two ounces of medical-quality cannabis. That's just for the light, roughly double that to accommodate for the pump running non-stop, add another ten dollars in nutrients. 20 dollars for almost two ounces of product. Does anybody else see why we don't bother with HID any longer? | | Tuesday, March 30th, 2010 | | 8:57 pm |
| | Monday, March 29th, 2010 | | 4:10 pm |
| | Tuesday, March 9th, 2010 | | 1:52 pm |
Major Snag Encountered
Hiccup with manufacturer. LED panels coming later than expected, hopefully soon as plants are starting to outgrow the 20w LEDs I have.  | | Saturday, February 27th, 2010 | | 2:22 pm |
Did some re-arranging until the lights arrive
 There we go, things clustered a little tighter so light coverage is a bit better. 20w for 6 square feet for maintaining life is perfect. Also, I haven't seen any algae forming even with open exposed areas in the reservoirs. The roots also are not minding the exposure - i think that certain wavelengths of light bother roots while others do not - I will have to run experiments on this at a later date. The "Krusty Bucket" is experiencing nice growth. | | 12:34 pm |
Apologies for not posting
Life has been, testy as of late. Good and bad happens all the time. So anyways, very soon my lights will be here. I have everything set, my medical clones are doing well under the LED lights (I will get pictures for a later update, I shattered the casing on my SD card and need to obtain a new card.) Growth is nice and compact. All looks well. Updates coming soon! | | Tuesday, February 16th, 2010 | | 12:19 am |
New project for LEDs - enclosed growing box
So I'm starting a new project - A small enclosed horticultural box. Approximately 2616 cubic inches of space (without reservoir or lights) with a footprint of 8"x21" - 168 square inches, just over a square foot. I will have 50w of LED inside of this box, 40:60 blue:red. This is my blooming panel, but there is more than enough power behind each for this to truly serve as an all-purpose panel, and that is how I am going to test it out. 50 watts for just a bit over one square foot of area, that is quite a bit of PAR to have.  I have about one foot of usable height. About two inches will be taken up in the top-center for the panel, but the panel is only 6 1/2" diameter, so it will barely take up space at all. I could fit three of these 50w panels in this case, but that would be drastic overkill and a waste of light in such a tiny space. I used Chromalux reflective paper stock from Michael's to transform the lack-luster steel into much more highly-reflective walls. I also used a little bit for the narrower sides of the little 6-quart tub that is to be used for two plants, to help block out reflected light from getting into the root area. The longer sides are firmly against the sides of the case, so no light will get down there via that route. I will be growing cannabis, as I am a legal patient under California Senate Bill 420 and Proposition 215. This is my CYA/legal disclaimer - what I am doing is legal in my state. I do not manufacture mass quantities nor do I distribute my medicine - I'm greedy like that and I do not wish to run afoul of Federal agents nor local authorities! Do not ask me if I'll grow or sell you any medicine - ain't happening, Jack! I respect the boundaries set forth by these regulations and I abide strictly by them. I am doing this for research purposes and to test the effectiveness of my light. I've been wasting much power even using T5HO fluorescent tubes, and I need to see if my improved specifications and design is more effective. I think I will vegetate clones for a couple of weeks, train them inside the box, then flower them. This should provide enough time for the clones to occupy the floor space, then also provide enough headroom for potent flowers to grow. This will also serve to test how much better LEDs operate with a highly reflective growing environment. Current Mood:  accomplished | | Sunday, February 14th, 2010 | | 12:35 pm |
Yet another earthquake yesterday
This time, a 4.1 just three miles south of my location, according to the USGS earthquake map. Sadly, this impacted my experiment - my air compressor was shaken from its place and it fell on top of two of my African basil plants, crushing the top halves of them. I was just about to take measurements when the earthquake happened. Was almost able to catch the compressor, but sadly I wasn't quick enough with my reflexes, so now two of the tallest plants are now the shortest ones out of the group. With that having happened, I must conclude this experiment. Sadly, this also means my data is incomplete. This is very saddening to me. I do have enough data to show that my vegetative-purposed LED tubes performed their jobs as I expected they would, so all is not totally lost. I'll likely re-tweak the design in the future, but for now, they most certainly have produced a nice quantity of basil, and I will likely carry on testing these particular lights against other crops. I think my next test crop will be medical, since I am a legal patient and am legally allowed to cultivate cannabis. On top of that, cannabis is a very choice plant to use for testing LED horticulture, because the standard lamp used for cultivation is the HID bulb. Can one obtain a similar yield using less power? Many Youtube videos showcase a 90w "UFO" LED light versus a 400w HID in growing cannabis - the best result I saw was 92g from a 400w HID versus 31g from a 90w "UFO" LED panel. Assuming all other things remaining constant, an increase of power should produce a similar increase in yield, a 270w "UFO" should perform as well as a 400w HID. However, I am doubtful that current red/orange dominant panels are sufficient. NASA states a 7:1:1 red-orange:red:blue is the best - most other growers would highly disagree with this, there is not enough blue. Many tomato and pepper growers have tried using NASA's recommendations - usually with drastic reduction in yield or an overall failure to get past blooming in the first place occurring. Yes, red and red-orange are required for blooming, but a fair amount of blue is required as well - this is the reason I redesigned my tubes and panels to have more blue. Cut down on lanky growth, keep it dense, compact, and still provide for reasonable crop production. My theory - Emulation of the ratio of red and blue light emitted from the sun that falls upon the earth's surface during summer and winter is key to producing the best crop using LEDs. In summer, the overall balance of blue:red is an approximately even 5:5, though I lean more towards extra blue for tighter internode spacing. For winter time, blue:red changes, with more red and less blue - approximately 4:6 or 3:7 blue:red, depending upon your location on the planet (not including data from the poles of our planet.) There is still a fair amount of blue in winter sunlight, so why NASA is drastically cutting the amount of blue in their research makes absolutely no sense whatsoever, especially to the levels they are stating as 'optimal' for fruiting and flowering. I guess I'm going to have to be the one avoiding all 'commercial' "Developed by NASA!" stuff, and show people that they're just being taken in by marketing nonsense. Oh well, stay tuned for some better research and better results! African Basil experiment CONCLUDED. | | Tuesday, February 9th, 2010 | | 4:21 am |
Idea for a chemical-organic hybrid soil/hydroponics system
There is a major challenge in many hydroponics systems - many growers want benefits of organic but results of chemical hydroponics. I believe I may have an idea to effectively combine both into one simple means - mudponics. The combination of soil and hydroponics, specially configured, to create an environment that will both help cultivate a diverse and healthy culture of beneficial bacteria, and provide a medium suitable for enhancement with both chemical and organic nutrients. First, we need specialized equipment. I would suggest using large buckets, 3 gallons (13 liters) at the minimum. Get a matching pair that can go into each other, drill holes in the bottom of one (only the bottom.) run an air line between the buckets so that the air line is in the bottom chamber. Hook up an air compressor to the air line. Fill bucket combo halfway with water, turn on air compressor. Add soil to the water until you achieve your desired consistency, then add hydroton or other similar porous sterilized rock, and mix thoroughly. Ensure your hydroton is not smaller than your holes in the bucket so it doesn't slip through into the bottom reservoir. Unfortunately, this method will require the use of an electronic pH meter, so have one handy, and adjust your pH to 6.0 - a good compromise between the preferred lower pH for hydro and higher pH for soil, and is generally sufficient all-around. You should be able to transplant your chosen plant into the bucket without trouble. The plant should stay - the hydroton is meant to act as weight and act as a pressure buffer from the air compressor, and also to break up the air being delivered into the nutrient medium, providing more oxygen to the roots and preventing drowning. This system will need to be kept moist as the plant draws in water from the system and the consistency of the medium becomes more viscous. Thankfully, with the soil and hydroton acting as a buffer, pH adjustments should theoretically be less of a problem. I believe this method, properly tested and developed, can be applied to create high-yielding crops with impressive nutritional content and superior flavor. Even if you use chemical nutrients alone, the plant can absorb other compounds from the soil mixed in with the nutrient solution to improve flavor, aroma and nutritional content. I do foresee problems with this system - EC testing will be IMPOSSIBLE. Not like I ever relied upon EC/TDS/PPM any ways. Changing the reservoir is out of the question until the plant is harvested, with maybe the exception of flushing the top bucket free of soil and nutrient solution, leaving the hydroton, and mixing a fresh batch of mud nutrient medium and then refilling the system once the buckets are rejoined. However, this would be just about as much work as running individual bucket DWC systems. Not hard, though. Simple system, should run itself as long as pH is maintained and you don't overfeed and make the solution toxic or out of balance. | | Monday, February 8th, 2010 | | 10:38 pm |
I should note that I am about to have equipment for sale.
By March, I should have equipment for sale for wholesale and retail. Pricing is as follows: T8 w/end caps and lead 10w 2ft - $80 retail $60 wholesale between 20-30 pieces and larger quantities can negotiate lower price. T8 w/end caps and lead 20w 4ft - $140 retail $110 wholesale between 20-30 pieces and larger quantities can negotiate lower price. 15w Medium Fixture Bulb - $90 retail $65 wholesale up to 30 pieces and larger quantities over 30 can negotiate lower price. 50w Circular Pro Unit - $170 Retail $130 Wholesale up to 30 pieces and larger quantities over 30 can negotiate lower price. 90w UFO - $270 Retail $205 wholesale up to 30 pieces and larger quantities over 30 can negotiate lower price. 120w panel - $380 Retail $290 wholesale up to 30 pieces and larger quantities over 30 can negotiate lower price. All T8s and the Spotlight models are dual-spectrum 60/40 blue/red - made for vegetative growth/supplement All 50w and higher units are tri-spectrum 40/30/30 red/red-orange/blue - made for fruiting/flowering and supplement. | | 6:50 pm |
Sorry again for lax updates
Things have been swinging lately, I've been busy running around to multiple hydroponics shops - I've got so much interest I can barely keep my voice mail and e-mail boxes attended to, let alone my plants! Anyways, the basils have started majorly filling out, but I topped them to make that happen. Just 10w for about 8 square feet is producing large leaves, and great growth. The plants have stopped reaching so much and should REALLY bush out, now, as they're about 100 mm from the light tubes - typical optimal distance for well-blended LED light at a decent angle.  Current Mood: accomplished | | Monday, February 1st, 2010 | | 7:13 pm |
Growth Spurt
Apologies for the lack update, I have been ill. Current average: 161.25mm  Current Mood:  chipper | | Thursday, January 28th, 2010 | | 5:31 pm |
More Pictures
All id doing well. I removed the 4-foot tube, replaced it with one of the 10w 2-ft tubes. Wider angle + closer light = happier plants. I had to sacrifice one of the basil mothers, and it looks like the entire bucket may be gone, soon. There's black stuff appearing on the roots and the typical anti-fungal/mold treatment isn't working, nor is a diluted hydrogen peroxide spray. It's not algae. The other plants are going strong. The current average is 142.25mm. Cinnamon Basil looks nice, as well.    20W of LED covering about 16 square feet in a 2'x8' closet, all is well for those without some strange disease. Current Mood:  bouncy | | Tuesday, January 26th, 2010 | | 3:51 pm |
Moving to 10W
Well, I have established that the dual 10W setup works. I am removing one of the tubes to replace the 16W narrow-beam lamp, That's going to get a new purpose, and a new room, soon. I intend to make that light bar spin, I can cover a four foot diameter with 16w. Get it closer to the plants so it is more effective. Well, when I get the setup for it constructed. Anyways, the roots have come through all of the homemade net pots and are in the nutrient solution. In the professional buckets, nothing has shown, though growth remains steady. The pro units are larger in diameter and deeper, so that would make some sense, as there would be more material for the roots to go through.   Still looking good! | | Sunday, January 24th, 2010 | | 12:14 am |
Average for the clones = 121.875mm = 4.8 inches - ONE WEEK MARK.
Not shabby at all. Plenty of pictures. The rightmost plant is the one that leans the most towards the light, I think that is due to the lack of reflective surface, like the white wall the leftmost plant has. Middle picture is the leaner, as you can quit easily see.      Starting at 77mm average for the clones on the 14th, cutting them DOWN to 95.25mm average at transplant on the 17th, I am now at 121.875mm average. This is in the course of ten days. So, not counting growth I had to cut back, we're looking at 44.875mm average growth - 45mm rounded up - 4.5mm of growth per day. Anybody that says LEDs are not a viable tech, please keep watching. Oh! I forgot pictures of the other plants, though they're not as important, they are still good indicators of how well the other LED bar is performing, even at such a great distance (for an LED.)  As you can see, life is well-sustained. I will work on improving this model and perhaps design it for a wider angle, and see if I can keep the distance, so the bar can cover a wider swath but still be effective. All in all, I am quite pleased with the results. The dual 10W tubes are about par with my 216w T5HO light - the lack of green and yellow acting as regulators/inhibitors helps with better absorption of the focused blue and red wavelengths. Also - stay tuned for tests on some century-old technology, courtesy of Nikola Tesla, in the near future. | | Thursday, January 21st, 2010 | | 6:19 pm |
Roots have shown, and more.
Everything is going well. Roots have shown through most of the net pots, and growth is slow but steady. Everything looks good, all in all. The average height right now for the entire group is 4.25" The large basil plant has a couple of shoots almost up to eleven inches in height, but on average the plants are about 10"   | | Monday, January 18th, 2010 | | 9:45 am |
FRIENDS ONLY
Got nailed by a spambot last night - I've had to lock this journal down to friends only. If you wish to view this journal, please register a livejournal account and add me as a friend. Please make sure your profile clearly indicates who you are, so I can determine that you're not a bot. STUPID SPAMMERS! ARRRRRRRRGH!!!! | | Sunday, January 17th, 2010 | | 1:05 pm |
In the bucket - it's go time!
Okay, buckets are set up. Here's how: 3 gallons unfiltered H2O. 1 teaspoon GenHydro FloraMicro 2 teaspoons GenHydro FloraGro .5 teaspoons Botanicare Cal-Mag .5 teaspoons GroTek Pro-Slicate ~5.8 pH The average height is ~3.75 inches (rounded down) for all plants. I will just conduct averages in growth, I will not chart each individual plant (well, I will in order to get the numbers, but the data will not be presented here; an average will suffice as I do not wish to bore any potential readers with endless data.) I will make measurements daily and give an average every three days. Pictures will come forth, naturally, in their full oversized (and LED-blurred) glory.  | | Saturday, January 16th, 2010 | | 6:35 pm |
Day 8/9 for the clones
Just out of curiosity, I split open a rockwool cube to check for roots. The leaves were all perky, and the flowering suggested that roots had started forming. My assumption was correct, as these roots will show you! Oh, to note: Average rooting time of these Basil cuttings is 14 days to viable root system. With that amount you see, I have only a day or so left before I can transplant. A wee bit faster than the T5HO lights on rooting!  Current Mood: accomplished |
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